
Print shows a French zouave in 1853, wearing uniform and holding rifle, on cigarette card issued by Kinney Tobacco Company as an insert with the Sweet Caporal brand cigarettes.
When the French went into Algeria in the 1830s, they encountered the Zouaoua people, a Berber tribe along the Djurdjura mountains. Allying with these tough mountain people when possible, metropolitan French officers fell in amour with their costume of flowing colorful breeches, short jackets, turbans or fez, and capes– soon borrowing these for locally raised troops and even for European units.
By the Crimean War, French Zouave units were engaged in combat and, being the first modern European conflict since 1815, caught the imagination of those who were military minded on the other side of the Atlantic.

A French cantinière attached to a Zouave regiment during the Crimean War, 1855 – photo by Roger Fenton

Zouave of the 2nd French Zouave Regiment poses with battle standard after the Battle of Solferino, 1859
By the 1850s many fashionable “marching units” of militia in the U.S. were patterned on zouave gear which led to an explosion of units on both sides of the Civil War.

Zouaves of Company G, 114th Pennsylvania Infantry. Petersburg, Virginia.

Louisiana Tiger by Pierre Albert Leroux

Sergeant Henry G. Lillibridge of Co. H, 10th Rhode Island Infantry Regiment, in zouave uniform with saber bayoneted rifle
It wasn’t just in the U.S, North Africa and France that the zouaves caught on. During the 1863 Polish Uprising against the Tsar, there was a unit of black-robed Death Zouaves in the free Pole forces.
The French, for their part, maintained zouave units, especially among North African troops, into the 1960s. While forces in other countries were very popular until as late as the early 1900s.

Posed shot of french zouaves firing hotchkiss machinegun note the assistant gunnner catching brass in canvas feedbucket

Autochrome of a French Zouave eating a meal, Valbonne, 1913. He is wearing medals for service in Tunisia and Morocco
Today North African countries, to include Morocco and Algeria, still maintain zouave influence in certian dress uniforms while the Italian Bersaglieri, with a lineage of service that included Libya and Tunisia as well as Spanish paramilitary Regulares assigned to the country’s legacy enclaves of Céuta and Melilla, retain red fezes.

Italian soldiers stand guard at Chiaiano cave a quarter of Naples on 10 July 2008. AFP PHOTO / FRANCESCO PISCHETOLA
The Library of Congress has more than 270 vintage zouave images online covering not only U.S./Confederate units, but also French, Brazilian and Ottoman troops.
